On a larger level there are just two kinds of drivers in the world: one, who are gentlemanly, courteous, and non-defaulters, while on the other hand, you have those who drive rash, cut you off, and more often than not, jump signals, without caring about fellow road users. We’ve just made a small guide on how one shouldn’t turn into a dimwit by modifying his/her car in the following ways:
Wider tyres mean a larger contact patch, which in turn means more grip, right? But what’s the point of the grip when all you do is drive in a straight line, corner like a grandma, and while doing so, rub your tyres against the wheel arches!
Wide tyres are good on purpose-built vehicles. On road-going everyday cars, they just mean one thing: foolishness. Unless you’re a hardcore racetrack/off-road enthusiasts who spends more time away from public roads than off it.
Not only does a messed up wheel ruin the way it drives, you also need to ensure that while turning your tyre doesn’t take a motorist or two with it.
How to do it:
Have you seen the roof-mounted LED lights that off-roaders have on their vehicles? Well they work really fine when you are trying to make your way through a dense forest. But on public roads? Are you kidding me!
Because if you have to put a light on top of your head to spot something that your lifted AWD vehicle can’t cross, then you either have a terrible eyesight or your off-roader is better left in the high school parking lot.
How to do it:
It now gets serious. You see bull bars might make you believe that they add a layer of protection between you and the car ahead. Well, that’s true, but the said layer is dangerous not only to the occupants but also the pedestrians.
First, in case of monocoque chassis, the bull bars/guards are mounted on to the metal frame. So any sort of collision will result in the energy being transferred to the passenger cell, which is also connected to the metal frame — or rather is a part of the metal frame. The bumper and the space between the engine, crumple zone for impact absorption, gets bypassed due to the said guard, hence causing more damage to the vehicle and its occupants. Worse still, it can even affect the functioning of airbags.
So unless you’re going off-roading and mounting a bull guard on the chassis (in case of a ladder frame vehicle), just chuck the idea.
How to do it:
Free-flow exhausts reduce the back pressure on the engine and liberate a few more hp than a stock exhaust would. But on the flip side, the said exhausts also make more noise and can be a potentially hazard to hearing ability.
Unless creating a ruckus you aren’t going to find huge gains in performance. We don’t say that free flow exhausts are ineffective or anything, but their public use is one of the least gentlemanly things one can do. Also, they attract the wrong kind of attention, always.
Like FFE (Free Flow Exhausts), the pressure/air horns are also not allowed if they are too loud. The permissible level of audio is about 85 db, so not only these violate the rules, they also are hugely irritating.
Stay away from these for two reasons: One being decency and other being the chances of fellow road users to gang up and physically assault you, like you’ve been doing by excessively honking all this while. It’s a scary world out there!